Beachs and Boundaries

January 4, 2013

I was in Cardston, Alberta for a few days, I had been busy inside for the morning but by noon I wanted to get outside, for a ski or a walk, before the day ended. I have visited the St. Mary’s Reservoir during the spring and summer But I had not visited it in the winter. Wally's Beach on the St. Mary's Reservoir is less than an hour drive from Cardston so it was a good place to drive to for an afternoon outing.

By about 1 PM I had arrived at the gate to Wally’s Beach. The gate is closed during the off season so I parked there and walked the road to the beach. There were latent tracks in the last bit of snow where a Cross-country skier had gone but the snow was now rapidly melting away and skiing was not possible.  As I walked south on the beach I realized the reservoir is frozen and I could likely walk out to a nearby island and do some exploring there. At a narrow place between the beach and the island, I set out across the ice and I soon arrived at the shore of the island. The water levels in the reservoir fluctuate seasonally which causes the banks to be constantly eroded.

These photographs are of an entire Cottonwood tree which has eroded from the bank, root and all, and has now drifted onto the beach.                            The entire walk around the island was 3.2 km. and I did it in about 1 hour.

I then walked back across the ice to the beach and back to my vehicle the same way I came.

The total distance I walked was 8 km., in about 2 hr. and 50 minutes.

January 5, 2013,

 It was January 14, 2012 when I first visited Police Outpost Park in the winter (refer to my Blog, Setting Boundaries). 

The park is close to vehicles so I parked at the locked gate and started my walk into the park at about 3:30 PM on this Saturday afternoon. It is only about 600 M to get to the trail which goes to the International Border. I was undecided as to which way I should walk, but I decided I would like some photos of the sunset at the Canada-US border marker so I walked the trail to the Canada-US boundary. I found things have changed a little since I was there about a year ago.

Last year a person could squeeze through a stile in the fence and walk over to the boundary marker. Now there is a
barbed wire fence right through the stile. I assumed the fence was to discourage visitors from going any further. Upon seeing this I muttered a few things about the absurdity of the 49th parallel and climbed the fence anyway. I snapped a couple of photos and then hopped back over the fence to my own country. Next, for some reason I decided not to walk the path back but instead I walked west along the boundary fence toward the Outpost Wetland. In about 200 M the boundary fence jogs south several metres and the fence clearly shows less maintenance. Then, as I continued on to the wetland, the fence eventually is just laying on the ground. As I am walking I have more thoughts about how absurd a boundary is which does not at least follow the natural geographical features.
I arrived at the frozen wetland and once I determined the the ice was be safe to walk on I started back toward where my vehicle was. I had not walked far on the ice when I heard something but I could not determine what. Think it might be a bird or an animal call I stopped and looked around but saw nothing so I kept going. Then I heard someone shout and I turned and saw a person and a dog. I think I faintly heard the person shout that he wanted to talk to me and motioned to me to hold up so I thought, "I could be in trouble". I started walking toward the guy so he soon caught up with me and as he approached me I could see he was in some sort of uniform. Sure enough he was US border patrol. He asked where I came from and which way I was heading. I was more puzzled by where he came from because I had not seen a vehicle or a fresh track at all. Once he established that I was a Canadian on my way back to my vehicle and I was just out for a walk he seemed satisfied with that information. Then we chatted a bit. The border guy said because there is a road nearby in Montana which is close to the road in Alberta they have caught people smuggling guns across the border at this place. Sheeze! It seemed to me I was out in quiet solitude with no one else around and now  I might to bump into gun runners!
I chatted with be border patrol guy about my other hikes in the area and about seeing a helicopter on patrol when I hiked that way in 2005. He was pretty courteous and listened to my stories. Then we parted ways and I hoofed it back to my van. On the way back I watched the sunset and I took photos of the wetland in the winter with Chief Mountain in the background.
When I got to back my van and as I was making notes about my hike there was a black 4X4 pickup truck with tinted windows which drove by a little slower than what I thought was normal. Then it drove by again and then seemed to be lurking around all while I made my notes about the hike. The suspicious movements of this vehicle cast an air of mystery upon the whole situation and of course, after talking to the border patrol,  every vehicle I see here is carrying a gunrunner.

Out With The Old

December 31, 2012,

What better way is there to finish off the year 2012 than to get out and do something active. The morning of December 31, 2012, I was in Tofield so it was natural for me to choose to ski in the Cooking Lake Recreational Area. I started at around 9:00 AM from the Islet Lake staging area, skied the Lost Lake Trail to the west end of Elk Push Lake then I returned on the Push Lake trail back to the Lost Lake trail and back to the parking lot. I finished my ski at around 10:30 AM.

When I first visited Islet Lake I my thoughts were, "this is place must be a well kept secret" because it seemed to have all of the serenity and beauty of Elk Island National Park without the people. As time has past I believe I notice more people are using the area. Currently there are no user fees for using this area so I am not surprised if, in fact, there is an increase in visitors.

As I arrived at the Staging Area there were a few cars in the parking lot, all skiers I think, but, on my ski I was only over taken by one pair of skiers, so, even though there were other people on the trails I was still favored with ample solitude during my ski. As I negotiated the undulating terrain through the poplar woods, interspersed with birch groves and white spruce, I was in familiar territory but still feeling the thrill and adventure of the days activity.

During my ski back, on the Lost lake Trail, I particularly enjoyed the view of Islet Lake cloaked in a blanket of snow. Winter has its way of subduing the landscape which deepens the solitude one will find there.

 During this outing I skied about 6.5 km. in about 1 hr. 27 minutes. 

Kinney Lake in The Late Fall

November 29, 2012,
 On my drive from Prince George BC to Edmonton I decided to stay over at the Tete Jaune Lodge in Tete Jaune Cache, BC (http://www.tetejaunelodge.com/). I wanted to do a some skiing or a hike the next day before continuing on to Edmonton. My last hike in Robson Park was on July 2, 2012. I have driven through the park on other trips but I have never stopped to do a hike. I was pleased to find the road up to the Berg Lake trail head had the snow plowed so I proceed to the trail head. At the trail head I find someone has skied the trail the day before so there was a ski track set. It wasn't long until I was on the ski track with a goal of skiing as far as Kinney Lake.
What a contrast between skiing on this day and hiking the trail on July 2, 2011. Today my vehicle was the only one in the parking lot and I was the sole occupant of the trail, compare that to a full parking and the hussel and bussel I had encountered in July, 2011. The sounds of the traffic on Highway 16 reached me as I started my ski but even that was soon gone. The trail to Kinney Lake follows the Robson River and sound of water tumbling and cascading over rocks soon drowned out any sounds of the outside technological world. The trail starts out in the BC Interior Rainforest as I ski among mature Red Ceders. As the trail increases in elevation the Douglas Fir become the dominant tree cover. The trail leaves the river for a while and the world I am in takes on a primal silence.
In about an hour and a half I reach Kinney Lake in a landscape now cloaked in snow. Most of the lake is covered with ice. The white cloak on the landscape subdues the greenery of summer and everything, trees, mountains and sky, have become the shades of gray. The air is calm and some open water, where the river exits the lake, is like a mirror reflecting the distant mountains.

For quiet and solitude could there be a better place than this, or a better time. I linger for about half an hour and then start back. Since I had a rather early start I expect, for sure, I will meet someone on the trail as I ski out, but it is just me today, me and a few latent tracks of snowshoe hare, caribou and a cougar.
The ski out is quick and fun. All of the elevation I gained during my ski in is now being 'burned off' with long glides. I am exhilarated by the quick pace but it seems I am back at my vehicle too soon. I am still the only person in the parking lot.

Tracking a Grzzly

October 24, 2012, Grizzly Bears still roam in the mountains in the snow. At least that is what my brother Ken and I observed on our hike over the Akamina Pass and into to Forum Falls.

We started out our hike on this day at the barricade on the Cameron Lake road in about 5 inches of fresh snow and as we got into the upper elevations the snow depth was closer to a foot. The freshly fallen snow provided perfect conditions for studying animal tracks. My brother and I find great interest and satisfaction in interpreting the tracks we find. Mostly it is speculation as to what made the track and when they were made. As we got close to the top of the Akamina Pass we encountered a new set of tracks coming out of the trees and onto the trail. We had no trouble identifying them as Grizzly Bear tracks. 

It was encouraging that the tracks were heading away from us.  Ken’s comment was “is it a good Idea to keep going?”. My reply was to the effect that this isn't the first time I have followed fresh Grizzly tracks in the snow,the other occasion would have been on a hike in 1992, in early September, while on a hike into the Nigel Pass in Banff National park, Ken and I looked up the trail we saw the tracks but no bear so decided "well there are the tracks and I don’t see the bear so it should be okay to walk as far as we can see". We became a little more cautious if it looked like the tracks went back into the trees. Then I would move ahead more vigilantly until I was certain the tracks went on down the trail. We followed the tracks this way for about a kilometre. Just before the junction where the trail to Forum Lake and Forum Falls starts the bear tracks formed a 'J' and it was clear to us that the bear had turned to look back down the trail in our direction. We were pretty sure the bear was close enough to be aware of us. The tracks continued on the trail toward the campsite area and Ken and I took the trail to Forum Falls.

 As for me I had confidence that since the bear was heading steadily away from us it had little concern with our presents. If this bear was digging or had been feeding I would have left the area the way I came.

Seeing Forum Falls subdued by it’s encasement of fall ice and snow was a pleasant scene.

On the hike back we saw a Three Towed Woodpecker.

When we reached the Akamina Pass trail head  decided to hike over to Cameron Lake. At Cameron Lake we observed some water fowl on the lake. There is a Nuttal’s Cottontail Rabbit living around the information buildings. Next we walked the trail to Akamina Lake and observed a Dipper working the shore where Cameron Creek exits the lake. The Dipper is a curious site as it walks in and out of the frigid water, it regularly completely submerges itself as it forages for submerged aquatic insects.

On the hike back we took the trail through the trees instead of the road. More drama was apparent on this trail where the track of a fox and a Snowshoe Hare meet and the gate of the hare clearly changes to great leaps and continues that way until it takes an abrupt turn and vanishes into the underbrush.

I can walk for hours in the woods and never see a thing but when walking after a fresh snow fall the tracks in the snow give me proof there is an abundances of activities happening by the creatures who make this place their home. Ample reason for me to tread lightly and be a respectful guest of my unseen hosts.

Total distance = about 11 km. in about 5 hours 15 minutes.

Ascent was about 729 ft, max. elevation 5953 ft.

The Leprechaun Trail

Oct. 13, 2012, I am in the interior of British Columbia staying in a ski hut at a place called Grizzly Den with my 2 older brothers. The day before yesterday we drove the Hungry Creek forestry road to the trail head and then hiked the 6.5 km into the hut. Yesterday was a snow day but by today the snow had stopped falling and much of the snow on the ground was already melting.

From the ski hut there is a day hike I have wanted to do on past visits to this place and today would be my chance to check out the trail. The trail is called the Leprechaun Trail. We started our hike at about 8:30 AM by walking back down the Grizzly Den trail to the Leprechaun trail junction.

Just by a wet meadow on the Grizzly Den trail a Rough Legged hawk silently swooped by and perched in a near by evergreen tree. As the three of us were observing the hawk a Merlin swooped in, dove at the Rough Legged hawk and drove it from its perch. As the larger Rough Legged Hawk retreated the smaller and much more maneuverable Merlin gave chase and they soon disappeared from view down the slope and across the meadow. In moments both birds reappeared from the direction they had gone, the Merlin still tenaciously pursuing the larger, less maneuverable Rough Legged. They swooped back past us and disappeared up the trail into the woods. As we proceeded on our way down the trail we speculated about what would provoke an attack on the larger by a smaller bird but we were not able to come to any solid conclusions. The best we could come up with was the Merlin was defending its territory.
 Several hundred metres down the trail we flushed a grouse off the trail and into a tree. We know there are three species of grouse in this area the Ruff grouse, Blue grouse and the Spruce grouse. I am reasonably sure this was a Blue Grouse. 
The Leprechaun trail is a steady hike up through evergreen woods. Much of yesterday' s snow was gone as there was no snow below about 5000 feet. As we hiked up the trail and we got back into some snow. Hiking in fresh snow facilitates the chance to observe what has and is happening in the woods and who or what resides there. As we moved along the trail we observed tracks of squirrel, marten, grouse and weasel. I noticed a burrow with tracks in and out. Maybe a Martin. Is this where it lives or was it just checking it out as part of it's hunt for food?

The Leprechaun ridge and the peak were windy but afforded us a grand view. The descent of the peak is steep and rugged but it isn't far down to Pat's Pass. We had some lunch in the shelter of trees then hiked up to Pat's Peak and another great view.

By mid afternoon we were back at the hut with good memories of a very satisfying hike.

The total hike was 7.21 km over about 5 hours.

Total ascent 2055 feet.

Maximum elevation 6169 feet.

 For more information about where the Grizzly Den and Raven Lake trails are and how to get there go to: http://www.trailpeak.com/trail-Raven-Lake-near-Prince-George-BC-2741

Rattlers and Rivers

On September 21, 2012 I drove to Writing On Stone Provincial Park to camp out with my Grandson. That evening we attended a park program about the night sky. During the program the audience received the requisite cautions about potential encounters with the Prairie Rattle Snake. This is the time of year when rattlers are on the move back to their hibernaculum. Also because of the cooler evenings snakes are attracted to warm areas, like pavement or rocks, in the morning so they can warm themselves up. As it turns out the Parks Person doing the presentation was proven absolutely right the following day. 

On September 22, 2012, while my grandson was reading his book, I went for a bicycle ride.I started out at about 9:30 AM I rode from our campsite up to the Park view point. I parked my bicycle at the trail to the view point and walked the short way up to the view point. What a great time of year it was to visit the park and see river valley in fall colors. I lingered there awhile and as I proceeded back along the gravel path I saw a very small rattle snake just in front of me. This snake would have been hatched this summer so it was rather small but I am told even small Rattlers have venom and should be treated with respect. When I first spied the snake it was relaxed and basking in the warm morning sun but as I rummaged through my pack and fiddled with my camera I clearly disturbed it and it coiled. I only tarried there long enough to snap a few photos and then I carefully stepped around the snake, watching closely for any others that might be near by, and left it to further enjoy basking in the sun.

No trip to Writing On Stone is complete unless you scramble around in the Hoodoos some, so that afternoon Levi and I spend about 3 hours exploring the Hoodoos. Levi even tried to catch a bush. For some humor in the hoodoos check out this link:

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ggzgDx28ZI&feature=share

Before leaving I tied my canoe on top of my van so I could paddle across the Milk River. I wanted to be sure I could take a walk on the south side of the river. Once I was at the park I discovered there was barely enough water in the river to float a canoe. On September 23, 2012, I waded across the river and then put on my hiking boots and did a 3.84 km walk in the back-country hiking area. I started around 8 AM and I followed a Track File, I had loaded on my GPS, of a hike I did in May 2007.  I observed a few Mule Deer in the river and as I walked a small canyon I observed a Rock Wren. This back-country hiking area is a quiet and little used part of the park, a great lace to reflect and take in more of the park's fall grandeur. I returned to our campsite at around 9:30 AM.

Fall colors in the Milk River Valley, from the south side looking north.

 My total distance recorded for the Writing On Stone camp out is 11.6 km, by bicycle and walking.

You Know You Are Having a Good Summer When....

You know you are having a good summer when you spend a lot of time being active and but not much time at the key board making Blog entries. The disadvantage of this is that now I have a long list of activities and experiences and a short time to get them all down. As I reflect back on my summer here are some of the highlights.

According to my notes I hiked the Bears Hump in Waterton National Park on June 29. I did it with my daughter's family, and my grandson. I was surprised with how strident my twin 5 year old granddaughters were at hiking up the trail. I look forward to many more hikes with them.
If you like small furry 4 legged creatures who are friendly then go to the top of Bear's Hump and ply the golden-mantled ground squirrel's friendship with nuts. Oh but I better add that feeding the wild animals in a national park is frowned upon.

Then on June 30, I was paddling my canoe with a friend on Islet Lake in the Cooking Lake Recreational Area. My I do get around.

Clearly a highlight of my summer was paddling the west arm of Myrtle Lake, BC with my brother and his grandson from July 2 to July 7. I now consider myself experienced as a kayak tripper.
On July 4, the three of us hiked up Central Mountain. The Central Mountain trail is rough at best but offers a great view of the Kostal Cone, a volcanic cone that erupted about 3000 years ago. We hiked until we encountered snow and that was as high as we wanted to go.

My notes from July 5, 2012 read:
Paddled the kayak past Leo island and then along, and into, every bay on the south shore of the lake. I came to a sign that says Hellset (a couple of days later I asked the park guy aboutthis sign. He said there used to be a trail to Hellset Lake but it is no longermaintained). Hellset is the last name of the guy who once had a cabin on thisbay.
An Osprey flew rightover me.
There was thunderin the south then it showered so I decided to return to camp. Left Hellset at 11:50 AM and got back to camp at 12:44PM. Less than 1 hour becauseof the threat of lightning and then near Leo Island a steady rain started.
On a rock south of Leo Island I observed a Barrows Goldeneye and a Common Merganser sitting on the same rock completely unconcerned with me as I silently glided by. Clearly scenes like this are why paddling is such a pleasure for me.